1966 BMW R69S Restoration: December 1999 [page 2]
1999 December 13 (Monday)
It’s been 9 months since I worked on the engine. Now that the front wheel is back on the bike it’s stable enough to install the engine so I will finish putting it back together. Before removing the plastic cover I decided that the garage needed cleaning – that took up all of the morning. Once the garage (and my work area) was clean I fired up the oven and start getting the the timing cover and timing gear front bearing warm.
Timing gear bearing
The warm bearing slipped over the front of the crankshaft. Somehow, I never purchased a replacement bearing. I cleaned and inspected the original bearing – no problems found so I decided re-use was OK.
Crankcase breather valve
While waiting for the bearing to cool I mounted the breather and prepared the timing cover gasket. I know it’s not necessary, but treated both sides of the gasket to a very thin coat of Hylomar.
Install timing case cover
I lightly oiled the the face of the breather valve before the timing gear cover was removed from the oven and put in position. It took a few raps of a mallet over a 2x4 to get the cover to seat properly. I then used some Hylomar on the threads of the bottom 6 screw when fastening the cover to the case. The holes for those 6 screws go through the case and I don’t want any oil leaks.
Oil pick-up filter
While the cover was cooling I added the oil pick up. Once the cover cooled I inserted the oil seals for the crank and camshaft openings. That’s all for this day. I covered the engine back in plastic to keep things clean.
1999 December 15 (Wednesday)
I was busy all day yesterday and had to go into the city this afternoon, so not much was done.
Oil pan magnets
Before I finished up on Monday I mixed up some JB Weld and attached some magnets to the bottom of the oil pan. I don’t remember who first suggested this, but it seems like a good idea. With the JB Weld they are not going anyplace.
Updated June 2000: Wrong. The JB Weld dissolved (apparently without causing any problems). This was discovered during the 1200 mile service. I suspect I had a bad batch of JB weld as I had other epoxy failures with that batch, too.
Install oil pan
I cleaned the flanges on the oil pan and the bottom of the engine with acetone, then added a thin layer of Hylomar to the gasket and mounted the oil pan. Since the screws go through the block and into the sump, I used Hylomar on the threads, too.
Before I install the flywheel I want to make it easier to see the timing marks. To do this I masked off most of the flywheel, but left an area from just above the OT to just below the F. That area was painted black out of a rattle can.
Air filter insert
While waiting for the flywheel paint to dry I cleaned up the air filter insert and its mounting bracket and then installed them. The rubber (?) gasket under the filter insert was pliable enough to re-use.
I’ve run my errands and the paint is now dry. To make the marks easy to find I first used some acetone to wipe away the paint above the OT mark. Thus, the top of the dark area is right at TDC. I then used a scribe to scratch the paint out of the S and F marks along with their identifying letters. Finally I used a touch of some bright red nail enamel to highlight the marks. I’ll let it dry overnight before going any further.