After the restoration: 12000-mile service [page 6]
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Thursday, Feb 23, 2006
Not surprisingly the theory of adding many of coats of primer to sand down
to a smooth finish didn't work in practice. After some discussion on the
slash2 mailing list I decided that the thing to do was strip the air cleaner
housing down to bare metal and start again. The thought is that the
crackling was caused by the primer reacting with the original base coat.
I used paint remover to to strip off the all the paint then sanded down
the metal. When finished I washed the housing with soap and water and
dried it. The primer was warmed by setting it in a pot of hot water.
The pictures show the results after the first, third, and fifth coats
of primer. Much better. I'll wet sand it and apply more primer
(if necessary) tomorrow.
I still have to decide if I'm going to try using the original paint
over the newly primed surface or purchase new paint that may be better
compatible with the primer. Decisions, decisions.
Friday, Feb 24, 2006
The epiphany came when looking at rattle cans at the hardware store. A
white bike should have a white air cleaner housing, no? This picture is
after 4 or 5 coats. I'll let it sit for about 48 hours, sand it down,
and then apply the final coats.
Saturday, Feb 25, 2006
I took the head to Joe's this morning. The binding head screw problem
was resolved in about 30 seconds. An 8 mm drill bit (or 5/16 inch if you
don't have metric bits) chucked in the drill press and passed through
the head screw channels does the trick.
Normally Joe would repair the 8 mm stud by replacing it with an 8 mm/9 mm
combination. The hole was already too large for 9 mm threads (remember,
this stud had been repaired some time in the past). The hole size was just
right to tap for 10 mm.
Joe made a stud with 10 mm threads at one end and 8 mm threads at the other.
The 10 mm threads are on the long side so the stud can be "bottomed" for
a better hold. I also used some thread locker. Hopefully this stud wont
fall off when riding down the road.
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