After the restoration: 7200-mile service [page 2]
Thursday, Jan 8, 2004 (continued)
Reminder to self: remove brake linkage before attempting to remove rear
end. The picture of the bell crank shows the pivot bolt in backwards.
The other end of that bolt rubs on the fender. This will be fixed.
As long as I'm on this side of the bike I may as well detatch the drive
shaft from the transmission. The boot is detached from the transmission and
folded over to get some room. A couple of allen wrenches are used to stop
the drive shaft from rotating when I apply torque to the screws. I'd
used locktite last time, so it took a grunt and a half to break the screws
loose. I've new screws to use when putting things back together.
With the rear fender raised I notice that the insulation around some of the
wiring has split. It looks like the sheath around the wire bundle, not
the insulation around a wire. In any case I'll do something about this
before putting things back together. The rear fender wires are
disconnected at the junction. The picture is to remind me what goes where
when it comes time to put things together.
The rear fendor comes off next. I note that the rack is attached above
the shock tower mounting flange. When the fendor comes off I can see
the damage done by the bell crank pivot bolt. I'll clean and touch up
the fender. It's in a hidden position, so an exact paint match is not
necessary. I just want to protetect the metal from rust.
The first picture is the castle nut that was rubbing on the rear fendor.
The pivot bolt was supposed to be installed with the nut on the outside.
The brake pivot is removed from the swingarm and the swing arm pivots
removed. The swing arm comes off.