After the restoration: 7200-mile service [page 6]
Saturday, Jan 17, 2004
I got to the shop early Saturday, anxious to get my final drive back together. Of course since I was early Joe was late. Jim, his dad, and I BSed in the parking lot until Joe showed up.
Joe showed me where he hid the shims for the pinion. I measured several
and took one from the middle pile as a starting point. The case was heated
and the pinion gear dropped in. I figured I'd have to do this more than
once. The goal is to get gear contact in the middle with the proper
backlash.
The ring gear was blued, inserted into the case with a brass shim,
and rotated checking for backlash. The first shim was too thin... no
backlash at all. The second shim felt pretty good. Some back-and-forth
was applied to the gear to see where the teeth meshed. Picture 3 shows
that contact is in the middle of the gear. Perfect. Looks like I
guessed right picking one of the middle pinion bearing shims.
The measurement in the shop manual were made to select the shim for ring
gear side play. First time the shim was too thick and when I tightened
the cover it put pressure on the ring gear removing the backlash and making
it quite tight to turn. Second try was much better.
Tuesday/Thursday, Jan 20/22, 2004
I don't remember where I got my silent blocks, but they were not very good
quality. The diameter was too small so they would fall out of the shock
eye. The first two pictures compares the two old blocks with one of the
new blocks. The new block is ribbed, has a chamfered edge for easier
insertion, and uses thicker metal. The last picture shows the new
block installed. Even with the chamfered edge it took quite a bit
of pressure to slide it into the shock eye.
I cleaned up the final drive and did a little work on the brake shoes.
The material is wrong -- it's made for hydraulic brakes -- but I'll live
with it a while longer. I noticed that the shoes had never been chamfered
so I dressed the ends and filed off the glaze. I'm curious to see if this
makes a difference.
The rear end is back on the bike. I picked up some gear oil and topped
off the transmission, filled the rear end, and added about 120 cc to the
drive shaft. No leaks, so far.
The drain plug was pulled. It's free of any metal bits. Once the
oil drained the oil pan was removed and cleaned. The oil screen looks
fine so I'm not going to bother removing it for cleaning.
I removed the slightly-too-large fuel line and will replace it with the
correct stuff. I also removed the petcock filter. Cleaner than last
time but still a bit of junk found. I then removed the old carbs and
put on the new carbs that I drilled for vacuum take-offs. Damn: we
put the take-offs on the wrong side of the carb flange. I'm going to
have to loosen the carbs to be able to remove the screws and attach the
vacuum hose. The O-rings on the new carbs broke upon installation.
Not unexpected with 30 year old rubber. I used the O-rings from the
carbs that were on the bike. I'll need to order some new ones.
Some paint came off the bottom of the oil pan as I was cleaning it. Since
I had the paint out for the air cleaner housing I added a coat to the bottom
of the oil pan, too. The paint only looks like fake chrome when wet. It
dries to an aluminum colored finish. At least it did last time I used it.