Friday–Monday, 5–8 Apr 2002
View of the Sand Dunes near Stovepipe Wells
Warren writes:
These were the immortal words uttered by one of the pioneers as their group left the valley floor after being stranded there for some time. I find myself saying it today whenever I leave.
The consensus is that this was one of the best trips there ever. Speaking for myself, I have to agree.
The trip started at 2:30 in the morning, as I had to get some last minute work done before I blasted out the door. I also had to pack the bike before I left as none of it got done the evening before. I found myself leaving Max e-mail at 4:00am letting him know the keys to my place were in his mailbox along with the keys to the Gold Wing. I was hoping he might ride it while I was gone, but the main effort of the thrust was to be sure my cat didn’t need anything, if even a little attention.
Having ham radio on the Harley is nice. I dialed in some useful repeaters along the route including the 146.94 machine in Fresno. I had NO clue that the Bay Area users of the machine here with the same frequency caused so much havoc on their machine in the Central Valley.
I actually did look for some of the SMBC crowd at the restaurant near Santa Nella where State Route 33 and 152 cross swords. Failing that, I continued on uneventfully until my first fuel stop at Harris Ranch (SR 198).
I had just gotten back on the freeway when a guy and gal went past me on a new silver Gold Wing. Not long afterward I came across a lot of commotion in the center divide with a LOT of motorcyclists and the Wing. Somebody had lost air in the rear tire but had lots of help. Everybody must have been taking turns blowing his or her lungs into that tire because it gets harder as the pressure builds.
After getting back out into traffic who should arrive on the scene but Carl and some of his closest friends. I’ve found that even in my car I enjoy the trip a lot more if I stick with the speed limits. I followed for a while but dropped back into the leisurely flow of things while chatting on the radio. I decided to take in the sights in Tehachapi and found some good coffee known as “pirates grog” I still believe that a long, slow, freight is what touring is all about. I later learned that Carl and the group had a great lunch in Ridgecrest. I did manage to beat the main parts of the group to Stovepipe Wells by about 5 minutes. The gas stop at Trona is alive and well, and while the weather going down Townes Pass grade was great, I encountered a Mach 2 shockwave by a couple of passing SMBC’ers that were clearly anxious. The view from the pass between Trona and the Wildrose Junction is still spectacular. While I was parked there a passing CHP cruiser was going south. I remember being somewhat surprised that the road was patrolled.
After a nice mosey over to Furnace Creek I found that the Inn had really booked me at the Ranch. I was pretty tired. Did a short stint at the saloon, went to dinner at 5pm and went to bed.
Saturday was a good day to go visit Las Vegas. Up and on the road by 5:30 I went through Pahrump where I got more fuel. It was there that I met an 80-year old that wanted to get rid of his Harley and buy a Wing. Told me all about a festival up at Rhyolite that day and the next, where he was headed. The local hams were supporting several events on their repeaters in the area but declined all offers of assistance as I went.
The plan was to meet up with a pilot friend but being a contract pilot, he was called out on a trip. One other gentleman I also wanted to meet but found he has an unlisted number. So I did brunch at the Boardwalk and went off to visit both of the local Harley dealers. All of the SMBC folks who went to Las Vegas must know how to have a good time as I never saw anyone I knew. I have to admit to being preoccupied with the changes that have overtaken Las Vegas in the last 15 years. As my friend says, he’s lived there for only 2 years and he can’t believe it.
One of the highlights of the trip was to retrace the route of the old Las Vegas and Tonopah railroad and the B&G, which followed much of the same route. There is a new nut and candy store in Beatty, and along with some very expensive railroad books I bought while in the Furnace Creek Visitor’s Center retraced the routes of these railroads through Beatty and Rhyolite. The Death Valley Railroad also forged a path up from Death Valley Junction to the mine at the turnoff to Dante’s View from State Route 190. I swing by Carl’s place about 5p on Saturday but gave up and went to dinner at Stovepipe and then went “home” to Furnace Creek. It’s 30 miles away but seems a lot closer.
About 10am on Sunday I again swung by Carl’s room and was greatly surprised to find Tom and Carl both there. We had a nice talk and decided to do dinner on Sunday night. I went off to the Charcoal Kilns and Tom and Carl went off for a hike. When we compared notes later that turned out to be quite a day. I found too much gravel on the road I took and came back and went to Beatty. Carl and Tom found the hiking pretty strenuous but worth the effort. I learned that I just have to bring the 4wd Jeep in the fall if I am ever going to see any of the more challenging things in this park.
View of Corkscrew Peak on Daylight Pass Road
I got a late start about 7am for the trip home. One of the nice parts of taking 190 West is that those snow-capped Sierra Nevada Mountains pose a good argument for being some of the best scenery in the western world. I stopped in Bishop for breakfast. It turns out that Bubba’s changed ownership and is once again the Bishop Grill. So, there is no more “Bubba’s Big Ass Burger” unless you come Wednesday through Friday when one of the cooks knows how to make it. This information is strictly for Marc whom I know is interested in such trivia. After stopping at the Meadows Ranch to get some of their famous Habenero Chile Jerkey and country bacon and cheese to add to the nut an candy collection from Beatty, the Hog was finally laden down to a respectable level in the company of the books and historical stuff I picked up at Furnace Creek. I had to offer Max some sort of bribe for taking care of things for me while I was away. Besides, today is his birthday, which I dare not overlook.
I decided to crash the party at the Waterloo Inn where there are some great ribs, chicken, steak, and pasta. I was about to drown in my own juices when upon arriving I learn that they are closed Monday and Tuesday. Damn, I can’t even camp out for a day. I finally settled for a great hamburger in Livermore at John’s that in their own inimitable way can make a cheeseburger taste like a prime rib meal. I finally got home about 7pm, unloaded the bike and gave up doing much of anything for a while.
It’s going to be nice to talk about this on Sunday. I have a ride to San Luis Obispo I have to lead but I am going to try to make breakfast anyway.