September 2014
Pictures start here
Randy H writes:
Recently returned from 18 days of riding in the Alps and following are some details, observations and photos. We rented a 2003 R1150RT in Heidelberg where Stefan Knopf rents bikes, has accomodations, arranges shipping of bikes, has a workshop for riders and generally helps people wanting to ride in Europe.
For ideas on where to ride, I used web info from ADVrider and Motorbike Europe Top 100 Rides. Very helpful was the John Herman book Motorcycle Journeys Through The Alps And Beyond and ADAC maps with scenic small roads riding roads highlighted. Stefan recommended some places like preserved Middle Ages city of Rothenberg. Early in the trip, we came to realize we had to include the Dolomites in Italy as it was highly recommended.
The high mountain passes are considered the focal points of Alps riding by many but the connecting roads thru the georgeous countryside and small villages are equally wonderful. In the 2000+ miles we road over 25+ passes including many of the more well known like Furka Pass, Susten Pass, Albula Pass, Stelvio Pass, Timmels Joch, Passo di Gardena and Grossglockner. Temps were in a wide range over the trip ranging from about 80 degrees at the start at low elevation to 45 degrees on a cool day on a pass.
Road quality was generally excellent. Swiss roads were at the top of the list as they were quite consistently silky smooth with the suspension hardly ever moving from any surface inconsistencies. Bottom of the list and most like CA roads but still mostly quite good were the Italian roads. Austrian and German roads were very good.
Lots and lots of bikes riding the Alps. Business signs welcome them, safety signs warn them. There was one m/c safety sign that basically said ‘no “credit” for waving at other riders’. Got quite a few ‘foot salutes’. Many bikes were mid size sport bikes, lots Ducatis, Guzzis, Japanese, BMWs of all vintages with newer GSs being most common bike overall. So many bikes so it seemed to be a bit more varied than here. Most days had at least some rain but it came and went quickly. If it rained a little harder, most riders ducked under any handy shelter and chatted abit.
Had a number a fun little encounters with people. Pulled up to a hotel in St. Moritz, Switz. and an older gent came up and started inquiring about our ride and bike. Turns out he was the Austrian National Champion Racer in 175cc class on a Maico decades ago, showed me a race photo, said he worked for Porsche later on and met Ferdinand Porsche many times. He also informed me that Puch was a good bike but the owner of the company was a nut job.
Another was atop Timmelsjoch Pass where I saw a bunch of older bikes, hacks, guys in leather, etc. so asked if I could take some pics. Soon after they pulled out the Schnapps and micro shot glasses and joined them in a toast. They were on Puchs, Zundapps and BMWs.
The beauty of the scenery and small towns was almost unbelievable at times. My photos don’t seem to capture it real well. Often seemed like a fairytale land. Especially in Switzerland, public and private property was maintained to a very high level.
Everywhere there were attractive small and medium size hotels available. We stayed at mostly 3 star but some 2 and 4 as well. Always a big varied breakfast included and we usually ate dinner in first floor restaurant. Never stopped for lunch except for the one day we didn’t ride and went to castles near Fussen.
The RT was not quite as nimble especially fully loaded as my GS for example and took me a few days get the feel of it. The comfort and protection it offered more than made up for some of the bulkier feel. Tank bag, top case and large side cases really made it a nice setup. We saw quite a few similiar often solo couples like ourselves.
The timing of going in early September was to avoid the summer crowds and think it was a good decision. Busy roads and loads of people in towns and scenic areas would have diminished the whole experience.
So, a highly recommended trip to anyone thinking of undertaking it.
Pictures from Randy
