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Re: oilheads-digest V4 #4



oilheads-digest wrote:
oilheads-digest        Tuesday, January 9 2007        Volume 04 : Number 004



In this issue:

    RE: Hall sensor
    RE: Hall sensor
    Re: oilheads-digest V4 #2
    Re: Hall sensor

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 09:48:57 -0500
From: "Dancoe, John" <jdan@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Hall sensor

Re: Andren Appelquest's "running hot": I concur with the diagnoses of retarded
timing.

On the subject of Hall sensors, a Q for Tom Cutter in particular, but others'
opinions will be welcomed...or at least tolerated ;)

80k miles on my '93 R11RS. Planning to ride from Michigan to Colorado next
summer. Should I:

a) replace the Hall sensor to prevent getting stuck in the middle of Kansas
or
b) buy a spare and carry it and my digital VOM with me (assumption: field
replacement is practical) or
c) whistle past the graveyard or
d) [insert your better idea here]

Regards,
John D

------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 14:29:56 -0800 (PST)
From: ABSDoug <absdoug@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Hall sensor

   Roadside change of a Hall sensor is VERY do-able. I intend on putting together a spare when I have some spare cash (on unemployment). On my R1100R, no fairings, it takes less then 1/2 hour to do a swap with minimal tools. The position can be guessed at, or you can go with full advance... just make sure you don't honk it at low RPM's or you'll get detonation.
a) Rather then replace, improve. The wiring from the actual Hall Sensors to the plug is the problem with these sensors. The Hall sensor itself has wiring that holds up fine. There is a BMW guy by the name "Coon" that has the wiring you want. This is what I did. b) Buying a spare means you have a Hall sensor with the same POS wiring in it. See a. "Dancoe, John" <jdan@xxxxxxxx> wrote:
  a) replace the Hall sensor to prevent getting stuck in the middle of Kansas
or
b) buy a spare and carry it and my digital VOM with me (assumption: field
replacement is practical) or
c) whistle past the graveyard or
d) [insert your better idea here]

Regards,
John D



- ----
ABSDoug (Heavily medicated for your protection!)

You never really know a woman till you meet her IN COURT.
Tired of spam? Yahoo! Mail has the best spam protection around http://mail.yahoo.com
------------------------------

Date: Mon, 8 Jan 2007 22:59:09 -0500
From: "R1200CA motorcycle" <z281le@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: oilheads-digest V4 #2

Hello,
Request for comments on using BMW's OEM QDs?

I had broached the subject with my mechanic by sending snippets of this
thread and a photo of someone's install of some metal QDs to him along with
a few questions.

He said that the weak link of any QD system is the O-ring due to cuts and
pinching that occur from time to time during use.

My mechanic suggested I use the BMW ones because the supply of replacement
O-rings is as only as far as the parts counter.

Thanks for reading,
Johnny

2000 R1200C Avantgarde
1994 z/28 RPO-1LE
AMA, BMWMOA, BMWMC/Ottawa, Chromeheads, rider, working stiff.

On 1/6/07, oilheads-digest <oilheads@xxxxxxxxx> wrote:
oilheads-digest       Saturday, January 6 2007       Volume 04 : Number
002

In this issue:

    Re: Broken fuel line quick disconect

----------------------------------------------------------------------

Date: Fri, 5 Jan 2007 12:55:07 -0500
From: Don MacQueen <dmac@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Broken fuel line quick disconect

Ken wrote:

Big thread on this subject over at ADVrider recently:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=116614&page=6

I've got a set backordered from www.omega.com.  Expensive for sure,
time will tell if they are worth the expense.
I've ordered the same set.  It was too complicated and even more
expensive to get the Swageloks.  I have a regular GS, so I only
needed the feed and return lines.  I was adding them to make taking
the tank on and off less of a PITA, and didn't want to trust the OE
type.

HTH.
- --
____________________________________
Don MacQueen, Shelby NC
'02 R1150GS
'75 R90/6
'06 Daytona 675
'05 B5.5 Passat PD-TDI
'01 Great Googoolee Moogoolee
'02 BikeE E2
WolfPack #004 emeritus
BMWRA, BMWMOA, ADVrider,TDIclub.com,
Apriliaforum, triumph675.net, RAT
____________________________________

------------------------------

End of oilheads-digest V4 #2
****************************




- -- So many roads, so little time.

------------------------------

Date: Tue, 09 Jan 2007 00:47:05 -0500
From: tpcutter@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Hall sensor

<< Roadside change of a Hall sensor is VERY do-able. I intend on putting together a spare when I have some spare cash (on unemployment). On my R1100R, no fairings, it takes less then 1/2 hour to do a swap with minimal tools. The position can be guessed at, or you can go with full advance... just make sure
you don't honk it at low RPM's or you'll get detonation.>>


Once the Hall sensor has BEEN replaced, you have the issue of setting the timing at roadside.

Roadside engine timing is a piece of cake, just not as tasty or filling.

You need a flashlight, or to just orient the bike so that the sun shines directly on the right-hand side of the bike. Then you pull out the rubber timing hole plug, located on the crankcase behind the right throttle body, and slightly above. To pull the plug, use any long screwdriver or similar to push up on the plug until it pops out where you can grab it. If you lose the plug in the hole, forget about it, NO harm will come from that. When this job is finished, store the plug and take it home where you can fight it with a long pair of needlenose pliers. Don't waste time and curses attempting to install the plug at roadside.

With ALL of the other work finished, leave the alternator belt cover off. Use your socket or wrench to turn the crank pulley bolt clockwise slowly until you see the "OT" mark appear in the timing hole. For some odd reason, BMW failed to make an actual reference line in the timing hole. Make your own mark on the right side of th ehole, centered vertically. Just draw a little line or mark that you can visually line up with the line directly below the OT mark on he flywheel (that is the thing you see through the hole.) Turn the engine over with the pulley bolt (ignition switch OFF!) and align the timing marks.

Loosen the screws that affix the timing pickup plate to the front of the motor. Rotate the plate CLOCKWISE to the end of the range. Leave the screws just barely snug, so that you can easily turn the plate without it flopping round.

Turn on the ignition switch and "kill switch" and QUICKLY, but deliberately, rotate the timing plate counterclockwise until you hear the fuel pump hum. Stop just at the point that first makes the pump run, as approached from the far clockwise (viewed from front) starting position. Secure the plate in this position by snugging the screws a half turn or less. Now turn the motor using the pulley bolt, CLOCKWISE, about ten or fifteen degrees.

Turn the ignition key OFF. Position yourself to look into the timing hole, as you will be looking at the mark move as you turn the engine counterclockwise with the pulley bolt, simultaneously looking at the timing mark.

Turn on the ignition and kill switches. QUICKLY turn the engine counterclockwise as you look at the timing mark. You should hear the fuel pump run just as the line below the OT mark passes your reference line in the case. If so, then tihten the plate screws snug plus a bit, then reinstall the rest of the parts. The bike should run WELL after this job, If it runs really crappy, check the right-sede throttl ecable where it enters the adjuster sleeve, It may be hung up.

Tom Cutter
Yardley, PA
www.RubberChickenRacingGarage.com
"If you love something, let it go.
If it comes back to you, you just high-sided."
________________________________________________________________________
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End of oilheads-digest V4 #4
****************************


On the subject of my overheating R1150RT, the problem finally turned out to be a faulty thermostat. After 30 minutes of riding we put an IR scope on the engine parts and the oil cooler came up cold! Cold, as in cold to the touch, while the rest of the oil system before the thermostat was very hot. The replaced Hall sensor was always in the correct location. I feel somewhat sheepish as it seems a natural thing to check the oil cooler radiator, but now we know!